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The tree of perfection is a thorny bitch to climb. However, when one does, through perseverance and sheer will reach the zenith - the view is breathtaking. I am of the belief that it is possible for an apt home cook to replicate or better *MOST* of the very best dishes they eat out. I have had my share of success. A perfectly grilled ribeye, Danish from scratch,, homemade pasta, &c. The glaring shortcoming of my abilities thus far: a) vexation at being completely incapable of scoring a baguette properly and b) pizza that rides a wide modulation between “OK” and “good,” never reaching “WOW!” or much less so even “great"… that is until now. I have attempted this project buttressed with a more than basic understanding of baking and the guidance of several notable sources:

Image from Amazon
The Inn at Little Washington Cookbook: A Consuming Passion by Patrick O’Connell

Image from Amazon
The Bread Baker’s Apprentice: Mastering the Art of Extraordinary Bread by Peter Reinhart

and My food blogging idol and friend Joe

to NO AVAIL. Well imafoodblog.com readers, I have FOUND THE HOLY GRAIL OF PIZZA, and YOU can make it at home.

Follow up:

Vera Pizza Napoletana is an entity all onto itself. The basic principles of which boil down to:

  • The use of historically accurate (and regulated ingredients)
  • DO NOT waiver from the stringent standards of weight/measure/process
  • K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid, a.k.a. don’t mess with what works)

Technically the pizza I made is not a “Verace Pizza Napoletana” because I failed to bake it in a wood fired oven that is built to their specifications (all of which can be found by clicking on the link above). It is impossible to believe that any wide portion of the population would be able to afford these ridiculous ovens. Only the very wealthy and truly elitist foodies would even consider such an addition to their home cooking accoutrement. That said, I did follow all of the other, sometimes specific to the point of hilarity, instructions/regulations.

Above you will find all of the ingredients necessary to create a true VPN. Here is some info on the products to be used taken from their spec:

a. wheat flour type “00″ - this stuff is really cool, for more info on it see this: Joe’s article here. Not available widely in the US. Be prepared to part with an organ to buy it from specialty suppliers online.

b. Water:
• pH = 6-7
• Recommended temperature for production: 20 – 22°C
• Moderately hard: 60 - 80 mg/L as calcium

Well we definitely have water here. Talk about being a bunch of specific Steves… Checking with the DC Water and Sewer Authority, we whiff on the hardness scale. I do know, however, that we are looking at about 80 mg/L calcium in this particular apartment (after filtration) because of all my experimentation with making beer (including the batch where I underestimated the CO2 pressure and ended up blowing the top off my fermenter and getting beer onto the floor/wall/ceiling/desk/counter top/Sara’s puppy calender).

c. Salt: sea salt must be used - How about “Fleur de Sel?” I’ve got this one on the lock down.

d Yeast: Compressed yeast, biologically produced, solid, soft and beige in colour - I love fresh Yeast. I have this on hand whenever possible.

e. the recommended tomato is the “pomodoro pelato S.Marzano dell’Agro Sarnese-Nocerino D.O.P.” - BALLZ. I’ll have to order these too.

f. Mozzarella – Certified mozzarella di bufala campana D.O.P, mozzarella S.T.G - Why not, it’s only $12/lb?

g. Oregano - How bout we use some imported Sicilian wild oregano… Oh it’s expensive and difficult to get, no bother, the good people at foodbuzz.com are picking up the tab.

h. fresh basil - I always have this on hand for my Roasted Basil and Garlic Olive Oil.

i. Olive Oil - Cold pressed olive oil that has not been refined, that is, extra-virgin or virgin olive oil, contains natural, biological antioxidants such as toceferol (Vitamin E). - Let’s just go ahead and order some from Italy to be safe.

Sheesh.

I am tempted to sub-title this photo: “20 minutes and 3 Bob Dylan tracks before a trip to Taco Bell.” It is just oregano, I swear.

The tomatoes are “homogenized by hand” as per instruction. Unlike other pizza sauces I’ve made nothing is added and the mixture is uncooked (until it hits the piping hot oven).

For the dough:

Water 1 litre (1000 ml)
Salt 50-55 grams
Yeast 3 grams
Flour 1.7/1.8 kg (depending on strength)
Mixing time 10 minutes to add flour

We have a Image from Amazon
KitchenAid KP26M1XNP Professional 600 Series 6-Quart Stand Mixer, Nickel Pearl and have never used it to full capacity before.

This time, it was over capacity. All of the water is added to the mixing bowl, and then the salt is dissolved. Yeast is added and then about 10% of the flour. The remaining amount is added slowly over a period of 10 minutes whilst mixing, always mixing, until the dough reaches: “optimal condition” - WTF? You were awfully specific about the water PH & hardness and which tomatoes to buy and now you could NOT BE MORE cryptic about the look/feel of the dough? Thanks, thanks a million. It took about 2 minutes after all of the flour was incorporated to realize that there was no way in hell our mixer was going to properly knead this dough. Sara and I kneaded it, instead, by hand, for 20 minutes until we got the above balls. They are covered with a damp cloth and allowed to primary ferment for 2 hours.

After the dough has risen, it is punched down and rolled into a log, and cut into 250g portions. It is then rolled “exclusively by hand” into equal weight balls. This stage is called: “staglio a mano” and the dough balls are called “panetti.” I had more than enough of this project for one night. They went in the fridge, I went to the bar, and all was well in the world.

The next morning I removed the panetti from the fridge and allowed them to rise for about 4 hours at room temperature before I formed the crusts. As you can see the dough is super thin (you can see my granite through it at some points). I am in no way a professional pizza dough roller. Not so unlike my TWD Daquoise FAIL, I didn’t quite get the circle I wanted. No bother, forward and upward we go.

This is the ridiculously expensive imported Mozzarella di Bufali. Consequently, it was SO much better than the fresh local stuff, I will pay the extra few bucks for it EVERY TIME. I like to support local artisans, but when you’re crushed, you’re crushed…

Pizza #1 is swirled with olive oil in the required circular motion and is ready to go into the oven.

Here she is out of the oven that was pre-heated for an hour at it’s highest temperature setting and a pizza stone inserted (lighting not so good for the picture, but trust me it tasted awesome). I ended up making several of these as I had some hungry pizza loving (pizza snobbing) Jews from LI and Geoff to feed.

Here is pizza #2. Notice that this time it is A LOT more round-ish. Practice makes perfect, I suppose.

Admittedly, this was not they very best pizza I have ever had. It was however, by far the best that I have ever made and is superior in every way to 99% of what you’ll find out. Having done this, I can see why they are so strict in the rules, and further why having the wood fired oven is imperative. In the end, the home oven is sufficient for crisping the extremely thin crust, but it just lacks that je nais se quoi that eating this pizza in a cafe in Napoli must have. I will definitely be making this again, with the same ingredients. It is my opinion that the most important differentiation between this an my previous failed attempts is the flour - standard tomatoes/cheese/other toppings would be fine. If you are serious about making pizza at home, get some “00″ flour from Italy, and give it another go!

I will be submitting this post to this month’s Bread Baking Day. The theme this month is pizza party and is being hosted by Zorra of 1x
umrühren bitte aka kochtopf
and this week’s Yeast spotting on wildyeastblog.com

28 comments

# AJM on 06/28/09 at 21:24
I'll go for the 00 flour, bufala, and wild Sicilian oregano picked under the light of a waxing gibbus by red headed 9 year olds but I WILL NOT swirl my olive oil in any required circular pattern.

LOL, this reminds me of the famous Chow anal risotto post, check this out if you haven't seen it:
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/288918
# Anonymous New York on 06/28/09 at 22:23
Damn. I made pizza tonight, too! But I did not order any special oregano, picked by the hands of Italian virgins or whatever. It looks like it was worth the effort and expense. Nice job!
# Melissa Email on 06/29/09 at 08:10
Wow! I am going to give this one a try...it looks amazing!
# Erica on 06/29/09 at 08:19
Look at that melty deliciousness!!!!! Well worth the time and effort and search for the perfect ingredients- yummmmmmy
# Chris on 06/29/09 at 08:42
Ugh, I've been trying to make a great pizza for years. Who knew pizza making was such a science? The 00 flour is key I think. And a super hot oven (disconnect the smoke detector for us apartment dwellers). I've had great luck with Mario Batali's dough - which is a little less anal than above (and includes booze). :)
Looks great though! Good ingredients make a world of difference!
# macduff on 06/29/09 at 09:04
This is awesome! Oh my god, 3 Bob Dylan tracks before a trip to Taco Bell...totally hilarious.

I kind of throw in the towel when it comes to pizza. The thing is always the crust. You can never, ever find good dough. And I am yeast-o-phobic, totally. Such a bitch.

But this looks awesome. I'll keep my eye out for your special flour...sheesh.
# Dianna [Member] Email on 06/29/09 at 09:50
Can't wait to use my dough ... I plan to follow your directions implicitly. Thanks again for it.
# greg on 06/29/09 at 10:06
Nick: Your dedication always astounds me! I admire those who aim high and you never disappoint. GREG
# Leslie on 06/29/09 at 16:14
Yeah, we thought of putting in one of those wood burning ovens when we redid the kitchen, but we opted for a new kitchen instead.

That pizza, while not up to your lofty standards, kills anything I would ever dream of making.
# The Duo Dishes on 06/29/09 at 18:52
This would be kinda fun to do, but we'd totally want to get a wood fire oven installed. :) Interesting 24 post!
# pamela on 06/29/09 at 20:11
I loved..."The dough went in the fridge, I went to the bar, and all was right in the world". Hilarious!! Great post. The pizza does look phenomenal.
# OysterCulture Email on 06/29/09 at 20:37
A true labor of love and from the photos looks darn tasty. I see you are in DC, sigh - moved back to SF from DC, and while I love SF, I still miss DC.

Have you tried getting any of your cheeses at Cowgirl Creamery - I think its on 7th. Its the only outpost of these cheese store outside of northern CA. They have burrata (at least in the SF store) so might be a good resource for you.

When we buy a house I want a pizza oven because how are you ever going to perfect your craft until you have all the right equipment, but darn it you are close.
# Hummingbird Appetite on 06/29/09 at 20:41
Oh man! I'll always prefer fresh mozzarella cheese on pizzas. Love the fact that you're committed the craft.
# lisa (dandysugar) Email on 06/29/09 at 23:28
Wow, true dedication here! Your photos are making my mouth water! This pie looks awesome!
# Sophie on 06/30/09 at 03:53
I am amazed!! I only use fresh buffalo mozzerella on my pizza's: it is all about real flavours!

yum Yum Yum!!

You did an excellent job, Nick!
# MrsLavendula on 06/30/09 at 06:31
wow! that was hard work!! but it looks like it was all worth it! the pizza looks delicious!
# lisaiscooking on 06/30/09 at 12:17
Your pizza looks great! I love the completely simple sauce of just tomatoes. So simple but so good!
# macduff on 07/01/09 at 08:31
So I was walking out of my little Italian grocer last night when guess what I saw! "00" flour! Can't believe it's been so close to me for so long...send me your address and I'll send some to you, cut out the Import/Export middle man.
# The Diva on a Diet Email on 07/01/09 at 11:39
Bravo, Nick! And congrats on being included in this month's 24! I am a true pizza snob, having been raised near New Haven, CT, and your pizza is a thing of beauty! I heartily concur on the spendy 00 flour - it makes all the difference in the world.

Well done ... now if you could only email me a slice. ;)
# Foolish Poolish Email on 07/01/09 at 13:13
Hi Nick
Fantastic post.
I understand the obsession that comes from trying to make VPN pizza.
Through a (LOT) of time spent experimenting with the ingredients I believe it is better actually to think outside the VPN box in order to achieve neapolitan pizza at home.
00 flour works best in a wood-burning oven. Indeed the whole VPN-approved recipe works best in a wood burning oven - there's not getting round it IMHO.
Anyway I'm waffling. Thanks for posting your efforts.
If you're interested to see what I've been up to in this regard you might want to check:
FP's post here
Cheers,
FP

NOTE: If you have never seen Foolishpoolish before, or are interested in just generally looking for a body of knowledge that makes me look like a novice's apprentice's housekeeper (at best) check this out -- Nick
# zorra on 07/03/09 at 07:48
Congrats, well done! Please beam me a slice right now! ;-)
# Stefanie on 07/03/09 at 12:27
Your Pizza looks great! I am a great fan of doug with a minium of yeast. The long slow rising in the fridge give so much more flavor! And Mozzarella di Bufali is the best topping for pizza ever!
I am impressed of the amount of dough you and Sara prepared. Sounds like a lot handkneading!
# Susan/Wild Yeast on 07/03/09 at 17:18
Hilarious post and awesome pizza!
# Lisa on 07/06/09 at 09:52
OH MY GOD, who needs a wood burning oven when you can whip out a pizza like that without one? I'm in love..with your pie :) Mouth watering is an understatement!
# Lisa on 07/07/09 at 08:57
Ha Ha! A mace! Honest to god, I never would have known that..but hrmmm..how do you? :P

BTW, you guys have a phenomenal blog. Three of you partake in it?
# Nick [Member] Email on 07/07/09 at 09:05
Lisa,

I know about a mace because Sara keeps one in the drawer next to our full length mirror. She always "happens" to open it just wide enough for me to catch a glimpse of the specks of light reflecting off the edge of the piercing metal spikes just before she asks one of the following:

"How does my ass look in this?"

or

"You didn't find her attractive, did you?"

The blog is a group effort definitely, with Sara pulling most of the weight in writing posts. Geoff is our "Web 2.0" director (self titled) and handles keeping our twitter account fairly apropos and entertaining. I, on the other hand, just sit back, take all the credit, and cash the (tiny) checks! :-)
# Shannon in Rome on 07/13/09 at 08:03
I have just about peed my pants reading this! So funny and so Italian "optimal condition". Classic! I'm glad it came out well (it looks amazing) and am sure you will improve. You should make the trip to Italy and visit a Caseificio (where they make the mozzarella). They let you eat it fresh out of the tub!
# Evan on 11/16/09 at 06:36
Wow, this looks delicious. And speaking of the Inn at Little Washington...ive been meaning to take my fiance there at some point. I've made homemade dough and pizza, but this definitely looks better

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