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Central Michel Richard’s menu is full of bistro favorites and comfort foods with a unique and satisfying twist. What sets Central apart from every other western bistro-style restaurant in DC is the perfect execution and creativity on every plate. Anyone who has been to Michel Richard’s Citronelle, knows this chef takes food seriously and Central is no exception. Central serves great food, presented beautifully, in a chic atmosphere at reasonable prices.

Follow up:

This was my second time dining at Central. On both occasions everything ordered by my table was prepared and seasoned to perfection. My dining partner / boyfriend and I decided to share two appetizers. First up: the gougères (cheese puffs). These cheesy delicacies are plated in a stylish wired basket. They are wonderful – crisp on the outside yet light, airy and supple on the inside. Consuming a well executed gougères is most likened to eating “a puff of cheesy air.” I have had the gougères before at Central (and will most likely order them every time). These are best when served piping hot – admittedly, our order was not as hot as it could have been – but nevertheless they were excellent. The waiter almost lost part of his tip (and possibly arm) when he attempted to snatch the last gougère away from my boyfriend prematurely. Next, we shared the tartare of filet mignon. It is dressed in a light, vibrant sauce with an element of creaminess to it with just the perfect hint of spice and citrus. It is accompanied by French fries – flawless French fries, some of the best I have had in my life hands down.

For entrées we ordered braised beef cheeks with tagliatelle and a cassoulet. Beef cheeks – may sound weird, I know – but they are tender, decadent, and most importantly absolutely delicious. They collapsed brilliantly in that, oh so wonderful way, only braised meats can fall apart. Some may find the texture of this cut slightly ‘stringy’ and they certainly have a strong beef flavor – but if one is adventurous enough to give them a try disappointment will almost certainly not follow. A creamy carrot purée added a complimentary sweetness to the braised beef cheeks, but for me the stand out on the plate was the homemade tagliatelle. My boyfriend is from Italy and can be a pasta snob, (especially when the French are making the pasta) but even he descended the Ivory Tower to give the tagliatelle rave reviews. The cassoulet was well thought out. It embodied everything I hope for when eating a traditional French cassolulet. The white beans were perfectly cooked. The duck confit, inspired, and the house cured sausage added sublime garlic undertones that rounded out both the taste and the texture of the dish.

From Central’s host of options we selected (and shared) the banana split for dessert. Bananas on top of three scoops of premium ice cream, topped with homemade whipped cream and chocolate sauce, is just plain good no matter how you slice it; which I mean in no way to discredit the quality of this particular example.

There are about a half dozen white and red wines by the glass, including a great French chardonnay, and nice syrah blend both for less than $10 per glass. Many and varied wines are available by the bottle, though the majority hail from California and France. The service was friendly, though not wildly impressive, but not pushy or inattentive either. Do not expect a production akin to Citronelle; do expect to have your drinks filled quickly, your food to be served hot (or cold, as intended) and to be greeted with only smiles from the moment you enter the restaurant.

In the end, Central is a restaurant filled with comfort food and decent prices. I consider Central a great bargain for the class of food and could not have been more pleased with the quality and presentation of the meal I enjoyed – a true reflection of Michel Richard’s commitment to perfection. Last word of advice: Central is not for those on a diet or for vegetarians, but it is perfect for those who love creative comfort food and perfectly cooked proteins.